Taiping's Heritage Trail

The town of Taiping in Malaysia means "Eternaltemple, the unassuming Tseng Lung Hakka
Peace" and is Perak State's foremost historicAssociation still stands proudly since its
town. It is located 80 km from Ipoh, the Stateconstruction in 1887. From here, you can already
capital. Formerly, known as Larut, the town wassee the Taiping Market ahead. Truly relics of a
in the midst of a bloody feud between Chinesebygone era, it consists of two buildings: Old
secret societies who worked the lucrative tinMarket and New Market. The former was built in
mines in the 1870's. After peace was declared1884; the latter, 1885. Made of ironwood timber, it
between the feuding parties in 1874, the townis protected by an iron roof.
changed to its present name. Before the foundingFrom Jalan Pasar, get back to Jalan Kota to see
of Kuala Lumpur in the south, Taiping prosperedthe Police Station. A former timber building
for several decades, scoring a number of firsts:constructed in 1881, the present structure was
first museum in the country, first Englishcompleted in 1936. It is topped with a fortified
newspaper; first swimming pool. Today, it isclock tower, and also doubled as a fire station. In
chock-a block with heritage buildings.fact, the first fire brigade of the Federated Malay
Exploring the town is easy as its main roads --States was based here. Proceed to Jalan Sultan
Jalan Stesyen, Jalan Taming Sari, Jalan Pasar, JalanAbdullah where a well-preserved building at No. 19
Kota -- run parallel, and are criss-crossed withis occupied by Guan Chin Han, a trading company.
small ones. An excellent starting point for aIn the 1930's, the building was actually a cigar
walkabout tour is the Post & Telegraphfactory built by a Burmese merchant who
Office at Jalan Stesyen. Built in 1884 and featuringbrought in women from Burma to roll tobacco
buttresses on its walls, this building was built ininto cigars. During the Japanese Occupation, it
1884 and bears the distinction of being the firstfunctioned as a warehouse for military supplies.
post office of the Federated Malay States. (TheAt Jalan Tokong stands the Cantonese
term Federated Malay States refers to a groupingAssociation and Temple for the Immortal Girl
of states ruled by British Residents during thewithin a common compound. Founded in 1887, the
1890's). Now, proceed southward to theassociation was set up to preserve the interests
pitched-roofed Town Rest House that was built inof early migrants from Kwangtung province in
1894. Rich in colourful history, this rest house hasChina. Its front courtyard is guarded by a pair of
once played host to past rajas and coloniallions which were installed in 1954 when the building
officials.was renovated. Inside the same compound,
Twenty metres further south, the ruddyTemple for the Immortal Girl is dedicated to the
brickwork of King Edward VII School peepsdeity Ho Sien-ku Miao. It dates back to the 1940's.
through the foliage of angsana trees. TudorTurning right into Jalan Kota, you are now at the
arches and wide verandahs are the hallmarks ofoutskirt of the town leading to the Lake Gardens.
this building that was built in 1905. During theAt the end of Jalan Kota, the Public Library is
Japanese Occupation (1942-45), the dreadedhoused in a white-washed building with a pillared
Kempetai (Japanese military police) used theporch. Constructed in 1882, it was the former
school as their headquarters. Classrooms werepremises of the Chartered Bank of India, Australia
converted into torture chambers and its groundsand China, which later became Standard
were turned into vegetable plots to supply foodChartered Bank.
for soldiers. Strolling southward about a hundredA leisurely twenty minutes' stroll from here brings
paces takes you to the Ceylon Association on theyou to Jalan Esplande which joins Jalan Kelab Baru.
other side of the road. An unassuming building ofAt Jalan Esplanade, near the base of a hillock are
brick and wood, it was constructed in 1899. Thetwo Chinese tombstones that date back to
next heritage building greeting you at the end ofmid-1800's. They are the remnants of a Chinese
Jalan Stesyen is St. George's Institution, built incemetery once found at the foot of the hillock.
1928. The wall of its grounds floor is adorned withAtop the hillock stands the District Officer's
friezes. During the Japanese Occupation, theresidence. Built in 1890's, it was once the home of
building doubled as a Japanese school and athe Secretary to British Resident.
Japanese officers' hotel.After the District Officer's residence, continue for
To continue the tour, turn left and proceed to theanother ten minutes to British Officers' Mess. A
end of Jalan Taming Sari; then make a hairpin turnright turn leads to Jalan Taming Sari where the All
into Jalan Kota. As you proceed northward alongSaints Church is situated. Founded in 1886, it is the
this road, look out for the Hokkien Associationfirst Anglican Church in the Federated Malay
was built in 1931. This building was the clan-houseStates. The churchyard contains the graves of
of the early settlers who migrated from Fujianearly British settlers who had failed to return
province in China during that era. Another fiftyhome through some misfortune such as being
metres further on at the junction of Jalan Masjidstruck down by malaria.
and Jalan Kota stands Old Mosque (Masjid Lama).The grand finale to the walkabout tour is the
Harking back to 1897, it features a six-sidedPerak Museum at the end of Jalan Taming Sari.
façade and a brick wall enclosure. ItsFirst opened in 1883, it exhibits ceramics,
grounds contain the mausoleum of a Muslimweapons, and stuffed animals, including the skull of
scholar named Sheikh Makhbuli.an elephant that charged at a train in the 1950's.
After passing the Old Mosque, turn right at theThe statue of Colonel Walker, considered the
first junction to head to Jalan Idris and proceed to"Father of the Malay States Guide" stands in front
building No. 2 , which is the Peking Hotel. Once theof the museum. Opposite the museum is Fort
premises of Taiping's rubber dealers association, itCarnavon, built in 1885, which is now a prison.
was built in 1929 and displays trefoil arches andNamed after the Earl of Carnarvon, Secretary of
narrow vertical windows.State for the colonies (1894-1878), it was once
Backtrack to Jalan Kota and head north. Near theused as a rehabilitation centre for captured
junction of Jalan Kota and Jalan Iskandar, turn leftCommunists during the Emergency (1948-60).
to get to tree-lined Jalan Pasar. Resembling a